Handbook

Theory of periodic waves in coastal waters. Wave growth, refraction, diffraction, shoaling and breaking processes. Measurement, analysis and prediction of waves. Coastal and beach processes including tides, storms, currents and elevated water levels, morphology, sediment transport mechanisms, beach erosion and nourishment, prediction and modelling of shoreline change. Wave forces on coastal and ocean structures with application to practical engineering design of harbours, breakwaters, seawalls, piles, decks, marinas, pipelines and outfalls.